I mentioned in my Truffle post that the rayon shirting forms soft vertical wrinkles around the waistline when my posture is anything but perfectly static. You can see what I’m talking about in the picture above. This is something that didn’t show up in my muslin nor does it show up in the lining if I try the dress on inside out. I imagine that it is more pronounced in the rayon because of the drape of the fabric. The drape is perfect for the skirt but I wish the bodice was stiffer. The issue could be solved by bringing in the side seams but if I took any more ease from the dress I would need to install a zipper. I’m wondering if there might have been a solution to this problem so I’m asking you: how does one sew a bodice with ease that doesn’t look sloppy and unfitted? Could an underlining give the rayon more structure?
Ease and the Bodice
21 Comments to “Ease and the Bodice”
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Hello! I have been following your blog for a while but don’t think I’ve ever commented… I would suggest using some sort of underlining also – organza would be a good option! Good luck! Frankie
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is it at all possible there’s too much length in the bodice? does the waistline sit at your natural waist? i’m assuming yes, you being so thorough…
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I, too, was going to suggest underlining. I’ve only just tried it for the first time recently, but it definitely helped beef up my lightweight fabric and made the bodice of the dress I used it on feel more…substantial, and not drapey/wrinkly.
I hope you find a good solution…though the dress is really adorable, as is. 🙂
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Hi Lizz,
I have to agree with everyone else, this dress is super cute on you-you’ve done a really great job!Have you attached the lining and self together at the waist seam? I ask because there is a possibility that the self bodice is showing these wrinkles because it’s draping quality is different from your lining.
Linings tend to be quite stable weaves so it may not hang or drape the way your rayon self fabric does. To help combat this difference it’s a good idea to add about 1/4″ extra length to the bodice of your lining pattern. The extra length you need will depend on the hang of your self fabric and will prevent the lining from holding up the natural drape your bodice.
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Hi,
I don’t know if you are still thinking of underlining. I am a beginner but I recently read this in the threads article on underlining:“One fabric that’s always tricky to underline is rayon, since even the most well-behaved rayon sags when “hung” on the body. Because this sagging is more obvious over time when the garment is underlined, I don’t underline rayon.”
Just something to think about. Hope you find your solution. Sounds like Alexandra’s info about lining might be the answer!
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I’d leave it how it is and just wear it with a constrast belt!